Tag Archives: Nellie Huang

10 Myth-Busters About North Korea

North Korea has earned itself quite a few names: a member of the Axis of Evil, the Hermit Kingdom, and the Iron Walls. Better known as the Democratic Republic of Korea (DPRK), it is one of the most isolated nations in the world, having closed its doors to the outside world since its split from South Korea during the Korean War in the 1950s.

Since then, DPRK has usually been covered in a negative light by international media – but is it all true? I decided to find out.

A recent trip to North Korea gave me a rare glimpse into a world that few people know about. Although we barely scraped the surface of the country – having spent just five days visiting the capital of Pyongyang, the ancient city of Kaesong and the DMZ (demilitarized) border, it gave me a peek that none of the news or TV documentaries could.

North Korea surprised me in so many ways, here are some of them. As a word of advice, don’t make judgment based on what you see and read on the news; go see North Korea and find out for yourself.

Sharp contrast in the two Koreas

Having visited both South and North Koreas, I was overwhelmed by the stark differences despite being mentally prepared for it. Visiting North Korea is the closest thing to actual time travel – I felt like I had gone back in time to the Korea of the 1950s, from our first step off the Air Koryo flight at Pyongyang Airport to the museums and soviet-style buildings and scenes of people dressed in comrade caps and buttoned suits.

Our group with our guides

Cult-like Juche regime

When Kim Jong-Il passed away, scenes of North Koreans wailing on the streets were all over the news. Many were skeptical about the authenticity of it. There’s no doubt that North Koreans worship their supreme leaders but only after seeing for myself did I realize the extent of it. The locals spoke of their supreme leaders with utmost respect – almost as if they were of heavenly status. At Mansu Hill, where the larger-than-life statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il stand, we were required to bow in front of the leaders as if it were a religious site.

Statue of Kim Jong-Il

Propaganda, propaganda and propaganda on the streets

Walking on the streets of Pyongyang and Kaesong, there was an obvious absence of posters and billboards (only one can be found in Pyongyang from the local brand of cars). I had somewhat expected that, but it was also strangely bizarre to not see any movie poster or circus ads. In their place were colorful mosaic art and hand-painted banners from the Korean Workers’ Party, used to promote the socialist regime. Many of them used representations such as the sickle for farming, the brush for education and hammer for the industry.

Impressive Soviet-style architecture

I’ve seen Soviet-style architecture in Russia and China, but honestly none are as impressive as those in Pyongyang. Massive grey blocks of imposing government buildings dominate the public squares of the North Korean capital, all of them adorning images of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, as well as the national flag. In the heart of Pyongyang stands the “Arch de Triumph”, that’s even bigger than its French namesake. Other impressive works of architecture include the Juche Tower and Workers’ Party Monument, both of which are enormous and impressive in scale and grandeur.

North Koreans are just as curious about the world

North Korea is completely closed to the outside world — there are only local channels on TV, they don’t watch any foreign shows and only intranet exists in the country (internet is available to ambassadors or approved journalists). Prior to going there, I had the impression that they would be very wary and suspicious of foreigners. But I was pleasantly surprised to find locals smiling at us, even waving and talking to us. On the subway, we even interacted with them, showing them photos on our cameras and laughing with them. We played guessing games with children in the park and danced with groups of ladies who were having a picnic and drinks.

North Korean Boys

They are not ignorant

Since foreign information is so inaccessible to the North Koreans, I didn’t expect them to know much about the outside world, but there were a few exceptions that surprised us. We met a group of 10-year-old boys who were on their way to soccer practice and we stopped to chat with them. We asked them if they knew footballers from Europe and much to our surprise, they could name plenty of them. They could even understand some English.

Tasty cuisine and home-brewed beer

I had no expectations when it came to food in North Korea. I have had my share of bad, lousy food when backpacking in developing countries and somehow expected that to be the case in North Korea. I was clearly wrong. While the food wasn’t Michelin standard, there was plenty of decent home-cooked Korean food. Besides kimchi and rice, we also had traditional Korean barbecue and even beer in microbreweries (that were surprisingly good). No doubt we were brought to the tourist-only restaurants in town and these foods are doubtless a rarity for ordinary people, we were surprised that they even existed in DPRK.

The deepest subway system in the world

It’s a surprise to many that there is public transport in Pyongyang, not to mention that its subway system is the deepest in the world, at 110 meters (360 feet) underground. Having started its operation in 1972, the subway system was designed based on the Moscow metro system. Most of these trains were bought over from Berlin after the wall fell and haven’t been updated since. Their green velvet seats, old wooden carriages and shiny steel railings reminded me of the 1970s. Each station has a different theme, with impressive mosaic propaganda art and sparkling ´60s chandeliers to add to the atmosphere.

Subway in Pyongyang

A surprising sense of normality

Despite all the negative portrayal of DPRK, the biggest surprise for me was just how normal everything felt in DPRK — people went about their daily business, the public subway system was busy, streets were wide but empty, and children hung out in the park just like we do. It was nothing like how you would imagine a ‘dangerous’ place. Besides the soviet-style attire and grim-looking buildings, there was really little to remind you that this was a country considered by many as evil.

It’s not all choreographed

Before visiting North Korea, I knew that we would be chaperoned around our guides and we were not allowed to leave the group or our hotels at any point. I had many friends who had serious doubts if we were being shown the ‘real’ North Korea. While it was true that we only visited places that the government approved and our movements were restricted, I didn’t feel controlled in any real sense of the word. We were free to interact with locals, we drove by farming lands, we saw shabby alleyways and we were obviously allowed to have our own opinions, which our guides respected as long as we didn’t try to impose our ideas on them.

Nellie Huang

With an eye for adventure and a thirst for the unknown, Nellie is a travel writer and blogger who loves to veer way beyond the conventional trail. Her blog, WildJunket is the child of all her adventures (and misadventures) around the world. Since the success of her blog, along with her photographer/designer husband, she has also launched a digital flipbook magazine, WildJunket Magazine.

You can find her online on Twitter, Facebook, Google+ and YouTube.

Touring the Axis of Evil: 5 Extreme Adventures

Travel is about getting out of my comfort zone and exploring places that make me hold on to the edge of my seat. But these days it’s getting harder and harder to find untouched destinations – places that remain relatively raw and non-commercialized.

That’s why I like visiting less conventional destinations. More often than not, the places I enjoy most are those with slightly negative connotations.These are also the most ethically challenging places to visit – the “extreme adventure” destinations that confront our beliefs and world views and help us to learn more about our planet and its people.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not silly enough to put my life at risk for bragging rights. But even Tony Wheeler, the founder of Lonely Planet who recently wrote a book on his tour of the axis of evil, poised it eloquently, “In almost every bad land I am moved by the outgoing friendliness of ordinary men and women. I have come to see that bad is a relative term, and that there are always two sides to every story.”

Forget about holiday brochures – get your atlas, find somewhere you’ve never heard about before, and go there. I promise you nothing will make you feel more alive.

North Korea

Pyongyang – photo courtesy of WildJunket

It comes as a surprise to many that anyone can visit North Korea as a tourist. Notorious as one of the “axis of evil”, North Korea (better known as Democratic People’s Republic of Korea) is often sullied by negative perceptions.

Since the end of World War II, the DPRK has closed its doors to the outside world. Only local channels are shown on TV, there is no internet access and only 2,500 foreign tourists (not including the Chinese) visit the country each year.

North Koreans are taught to think that anything foreign is a threat – yet, I was surprised to find how curious locals were of us. On the subway, we interacted with people, showing them our photos and laughing along with them.

We even had the chance to play with Korean children at a park, through charades and guessing games.

In fact, the DPRK actually appeared rather tame until we saw the stern soldiers at the DMZ (demilitarized zone.) They confiscated a camera from a member of our group.

Albania

Another member of Tony Wheeler’s “axis of evil”, Albania is intrinsically associated with the Cold War even today. More than 40 years of communist rule (under the dictator Enver Hoxha,) followed by a period of extreme mid-90s capitalism, the country is still struggling to get back on its feet.

During my visit in May 2010, Albania surprised me with the hospitality of welcoming locals (I lost my wallet and a local brought me to the police station and even lent me some money), local cuisine that easily tops anywhere else I’ve been, and clusters of beautiful towns tucked high in the mountains.

Of course there are always things to be wary of in Albania – such as petty crime on public transport and safety on the streets at night. But all in all, Albania is definitely a unique place to visit.

Myanmar

photo courtesy of WildJunket

Due to decades of political conflict, travel to Myanmar (formerly Burma) presents an ethical decision – are we encouraging the regime by visiting? While Myanmar remains a troubled country, things are definitely looking up. Following the election in 2010, a civilian government took over, Aung San Suu Kyi was released from house arrest, and the tourism boycott has since been lifted.

Traditional and surreal at the same time, visiting Myanmar allows you to travel back to a time when paved roads were non-existent and creaking buses throttled along packed with hundreds of passengers. It is a country that stirs my soul with its thousands of sacred stupas, poetic Buddhist towns, and mystical lakes. It remains one of my favorite countries to date.

Perhaps it’s because of years of isolation, perhaps it’s the deep-rooted Burmese culture, Myanmar remains pure and untainted – for now. Today’s Burma is still struggling with poverty and its tourism infrastructure is almost non-existent, but as long as you’re prepared for the bumpy rides and harsh conditions, you’ll be in for a rewarding journey.

Guatemala

Stories of violence, kidnapping, and drug trafficking incidents are all too common in Central America. Based on a CNN report on Guatemala, 6,500 people met violent deaths in 2009 and nearly 6,000 were slain in 2010. 41% of these deaths were associated with drug trafficking. Worst of all, more than 96% of all crimes go unpunished.

When I was in Guatemala several years back, I was stumped by my fellow travelers’ tales of mugging and rape.

Danger may be lurking in certain corners, but that doesn’t stop Guatemala from being a popular backpacking spot. It didn’t take me long to fall for the charms of this diverse, rustic nation. I traversed the country from the charming colonial city of Antigua to the impressive Tikal ruins in the north, and never got mugged once or felt like I was in any sort of danger. But then again, I steered clear from Guatemala City – the most potent part of the country where crime and violence are part of daily life.

Zimbabwe

photo courtesy of WildJunket

Like the others on the list, Zimbabwe has been making headlines for the wrong reasons. Since Robert Mugabe took ruling power in 1980, the country has spiraled into a series of racial conflicts, human rights abuse and violence. Although the country’s economy is slowly recuperating, millions of people are still living on food aid and struggling with disease outbreaks.

Behind this dark history lies a gorgeous country waiting to be explored. From the wilderness of Mana Pools to the chaos of Harare, Zimbabwe shows Africa at its best.

Granted, dodgy streets in the cities are best avoided and crowded markets remain off the tourist radar. But thankfully, I got a chance to know its people – who all warmly welcomed me into a country clearly misunderstood by the world.

I’m not saying that these countries are “easy” travel destinations, either in terms of comfort or ethics. But to me that’s what travel is all about.

by Nellie Huang

You can find her online on Twitter, Facebook, Google+ and YouTube.

5 Top Travel Bloggers Name “The Worst Thing I Ever Ate”

Popular Food Network and Travel Channel shows featuring famed food adventurers like Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern have made it cool to eat like a local. We asked our famed travel bloggers “What’s the craziest thing you ever ate?” The answers were brave…can you say cobra a la carte?

Ant Tacos

Lost in Translation, Marrakech
Nellie Huang

We were in the chaotic Djemma el Fna food market in Marrakech, hunting through the smoke and blinding lights for some local food at a budget price.

At Stall 34, blazing flames were clouding the sky in smoke and the aroma from the barbecued meat skewers was too tempting to pass up. My friends ordered several brochette de viande or meat skewers (the only item that we could read in French) right off the sizzling grill but I was craving for something new and exciting.

I scrolled through the menu, which was written only in French, and randomly picked a dish.

“Cerveaux de moutons s’il vous plaît!” The cook looked at me and smiled. Clearly, I had no idea what was coming.

Soon enough a dish was produced: it looked like a lightly sautéed chunk of mincemeat, but in the dim lights, I could hardly make out what it was and the cook didn’t speak any English. I was too hungry to care. I took a bite on the tender meat and almost threw it up. It had a soft, tofu-like texture and a strong gamey taste. No, it wasn’t beef. Neither was it lamb. It had a subtle hint of herbs. Bull testicles? Pigeon?

It was only when I returned home and checked up on the translation of the word did I solve the puzzle. It was sheep brains, and apparently it was a delicacy in Morocco.

No wonder the cook was pointing to his head the whole time!

A Cobra Bloodbath, Hanoi
Stephanie Yoder

I’m comfortable with the implications of being a carnivore but still it’s unnerving to look your meal right in its still squirming face.

I’m not sure what I was expecting upon being invited to a Vietnamese snake restaurant. The building was just another generic store front on a dark street in the suburbs of Hanoi. I would never have found it (or sought it out) on my own. We were the only foreigners there yet dozens of groups sat in their own private areas, all feasting on the same thing: cobra.

The snake came out nearly immediately. “Who will eat the heart?” the server asked, passing around our very alive, very alert, and very poisonous entree, “Vietnamese Viagra!”

I laughed nervously and downed a shot of rice wine. Next to me, my boyfriend Michael raised his hand to volunteer.

Do snakes feel fear? I flinched when they brought the knife out. It was just a quick hand motion and the beating heart was outside the body, still attached, still pumping. Michael bent over and ripped it with his teeth. Vietnamese Viagra? No way I was kissing him now.

“How did it taste?”

“Slimy.”

In the confusion afterwards the snake was bled out, the blood mixed with the wine and handed out in thumb-sized cups. We toasted and drank. The wine overpowered any taste but the act itself felt primal. Next up, wine with venom and bile. This shot tingled on the way down. I tried not to think about it too hard.

The snake disappeared into the back to be cooked into an (ultimately delicious) 6-course meal. The rest of us, who were clearly having a better night than him, went back to drinking wine.

Bulls Balls in Brazil
Keith Jenkins

I saw them for the first time at a grill house or churrascaria in Foz do Iguaçu, the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. The restaurant chef accompanied me and explained the different parts of the cow on the massive grill.

With a chuckle, he proclaimed, “bulls balls”!

“Testicles? No way!”

I glanced at them and made a beeline for the juicy-looking tenderloins. But when I returned to my table I was horrified to see the person next to me sitting with an enormous testicle on his plate. Seeing me recoil in shock, he grinned and asked me if I’d ever tried it. I shook my head, trying to regain my cool and appear uninterested.

His grin grew wider, he cut a slice from the testicle and handed it to me.

I shook my head but no words came out of my mouth. The sight of his knife slicing through the testicle made me squirm in my seat. I looked at it on my plate and thought, “Get over it. It’s just a meatball!” I put my fork into it (ouch!) and raised it to my mouth. I munched on it twice and swallowed it quickly. The only thing I remember was a salty flavor, which I swiftly washed down with a big gulp of beer!

Having the Guts to Try Something New, Buenos Aires
Jessica Festa

One hungry afternoon in Buenos Aires, my friend and I caught a whiff of grilling meat and followed our noses to a street vendor selling the usual selection of choripan sausage and other snacks. Although delicious, choripan is pretty greasy and very fattening so I thought I’d brave something called morcipan. It was cheaper, darker and less greasy; vegetarian sausage I assumed, without stopping to ask either my friend or the vendor.

One bite was all I needed to realize something wasn’t quite right, but it tasted enough like black beans that I kept chewing. And I mean chewing. They were the chewiest black beans I’d ever eaten.

At one point I was yanking a very stretchy piece of “black bean” with my teeth trying to rip it out of the bun until the food actually snapped apart, whipping my head back. Annoyed, I turned to my friend and asked him why they made their vegetarian sausages so chewy in Argentina.

After nearly choking on his own food he finally explained what was wrong. This was no vegetarian dish, it was congealed pig blood and intestines. Let’s just say from then on I stuck to the fattening choripan.

Mexican Fried Critters
Mike Richard

It would appear that bugs are the last bastion of “extreme eating” nowadays. And I’d say that I’m a traveler willing to try (almost) anything.

Which is how I found myself in Puebla – the literal epicenter of Mexican cuisine – this past summer with a mouthful of multi-legged critters. The good chefs at El Mural de los Poblanos an upscale restaurant in the heart of the city – serve some of the most traditional fare in the entire country.

As an “appetizer”, we started with gusanos – worms fried table side and served in corn tortillas with salsa, guacamole and ground worm powder. They’re crispy, crunchy and well … fried. Once I got beyond the fact that I was eating worms, they were surprisingly tasty.

But the real prize was the escamoles – fried ant larvae served with all the same fixin’s as the worms. It goes without saying that, among the dozen travelers in our group, few opted to taste this admittedly terrifying delicacy.

I knew if I was gonna do it, I was going all the way – a heapin’ helpin’ of ant eggs with a dollop of salsa and guac spread liberally on a fresh tortilla. It all combines into a buttery, nutty, and slightly spicy mess of flavors. To be honest, it’s still one of the best things I’ve ever eaten in Mexico!

By Heather Green

The IgoUgo Blog

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